Having built compressed earth block churches, schools and homes in Kenya many years ago, I stockpiled some 300 cubic yards of clay when we dug the dam on our US property. That orange, gold and tan clay has been sitting there waiting for this moment for fifteen years. Now at last it will be pressed into our dream home—the same clay from which we humans were shaped and in-spired.
But why a house made out of compressed earth blocks (CEB) in a hot and humid region like East Texas? This technology has caught on hugely in Iraq where barracks and forts of CEB block are fire-proof, bullet proof, cool and quiet. But Iraq is a desert climate like New Mexico and Arizona with their tradition of adobe construction. Mass earth houses do well there. Will they do well in humid, wet East Texas?
The short answer is, yes; they are suitable--with the right insulation and roofing--for anywhere in the world. We once lived in the coastal city of Mombasa, Kenya, a very wet, humid climate, and the forts and colonial mansions there were all made of mass earth construction. Four hundred years after they were first built, they are still the buildings of choice as the interior climate is so stable, cool and quiet. So we have no fear that this house will be very comfortable, to say nothing of inexpensive to heat and cool.
How inexpensive you may inquire? Current research by Dr. John J. Moroney of the Southwest Texas College, Biology department in a peer-reviewed and published study shows that a minimally stabilized compressed earth block is a phase change material and it will act like our skin in heat—it will imperceptibly perspire and cool down the house quite on its own. The cooling effect is not insignificant as studies have shown in test structures in Brownsville and Del Rio that the interior of a CEB home can be as much as 30 degrees F below outside temperatures. That’s like having a SEER 30 air conditioner, which you can’t even buy in the US. So you begin with a reasonable cooling effect of say even 20 degree F before the AC even comes on. That’s a savings that will equal the cost of the walls and any AC equipment over five years of occupation.
When you consider that wild fires are now a constant danger anywhere in the south and west, then a fire-proof home will become a necessity! To build a stick-house out of “kindling” in the Southwest now is folly. We live hard by the National Forest, and thus it is only a matter of time before we go through a wildfire. With the roof built to meet Florida code of 150 mph, the house will be pretty safe during the expected increase of storm severity over the next 100 years as the planet warms and weather becomes more unstable.
So that’s the why we will build a CEB home. In the next blog we’ll look at how we have built the block press we think will do the quality of work we specified and produce the 15,000 blocks we have estimated it will take to build the walls of our home.
Owner drawing of brick by brick model. Shows details of brick, insulation, arches and windows. |
Architect rendering of south elevation |
Architect floor plan |
Block Uniformity
But the most important and least discussed problem with CEB production is not the technology or block press. There are hundreds of presses out there at all scales. They are advertised by weight, number of blocks ejected every minute, cost, and aesthetics—ours has tires and running lights! None address block uniformity as a concern, yet it is the single most important issue in this industry.soil slurry bonding blocks into unified wall |
Soil Mixing
Having solved the block uniformity problem, we then went on to the “real” problem with earth construction, which is getting the soil right. We will take an entire blog to describe what we have had to do to determine the suitability of the soil we stockpiled. Then we will review soil stabilization as we will do it for our project and give a hint at some of the technical specifications any block must meet if it is to be used in a wall and contribute to the safety and longevity of the house. What I’m saying here is that, contrary to many a u-tube promo, one cannot just go out and dig up the yard, throw the dirt in a press and stack up those blocks for a wall! Well, you can, but you risk dying rather than living in such a structure!We hope that block making will be under way shortly—end of September. We will post a schedule on this blog site for anyone who wishes to come to work and learn. No press and no “observers” will be admitted. We will work together with anyone who wants to learn the hard way—by doing it with us.
If you wish to do it with us, please do the following: email us at tiddlyinks87{at}gmail.com to request a spot. We will confirm your “reservation” by email on a first come, first served basis. Plan to camp out/stay on a Friday night, getting up early Saturday morning while its cool, and we will make blocks until it is too hot to continue or we hit our target production. You will have to sign a waiver of our liability for your health and safety while you are on our property. We have done everything possible to ensure our own safety and health on the site, especially around the CEB press, but accidents do happen.
Our target production for each day is 500 blocks, each weighing 20-25 pounds. That’s handling 6 tons of compressed earth. If we could press 1 ton (2000 lbs.) of soil an hour, we would produce about 80-100 blocks. To accomplish that, the machine must kick out properly conditioned, stabilized, soil blocks at a rate of 1.5 per minute.
The machine as we have constructed and powered it can produce at least one block every 15 seconds or 4 per minute. Our goal is 6 blocks a minute or 360 an hour. However, one must correctly account for stabilizing and loading time, so 1.5 to 2 blocks a minute average for 4 hours seems like something a few people can actually do. Mixing and loading are all done by machines, so the only handling is taking the blocks as they are ejected from the machine and stacking them on a pallet where they will be shrink-wrapped and stored in the shade until they are placed in the wall later this year.
Soil conditioner with soil being added |
final conditioned soil |
We’ll keep you posted here on production progress. We will confirm your “reservation” by email on a first come, first served basis for the wall building project as well. We have limited space for company. You will have to sign a waiver of our liability for your health and safety while you are on our property again.
When things heat up, we’ll stop, cool off, and have lunch before you depart Saturday afternoon. We have learned that this is a slow project that cannot be rushed if we are to get it right--plus, that gives us a chance to enjoy some fun and fellowship in the process.
2 comments:
Hello my name is Roger Duck in Austin and I am a colleague and friend of John Marony. We are currently researching and writing about the use of adobe ceb in a hot and humid climate. I'm interested in your experience living in a hot and humid climate in adobe and what the diurnal variation was for that climate. We're those walls 24 inches to 48 inches? It's my opinion that adobe is a magic material because of it's phase change and thermal mass properties. However, if you understand the science of adobe, you also understand that a small single wall adobe simply can't work in a hot and humid climate with a small diurnal variation. The thermal creep during the hot summer months will simply overwhelm the system and it acts like an oven.
John and I are testing out a double wall and roof with ventilation chambers as the solution for using adobe in a hot and humid climate. A couple notes on your design. Most of the heat in our climate comes through the roof so that is much more important than the walls. Metal is a good choice but go with white metal as the reflectivity is very powerful. However, once you go to the trouble of framing and building a metal roof, you might as well stick frame and build metal walls as well. I feel you either go all metal, or all adobe. It's inefficient to mix the materials.
Hello my name is Roger Duck in Austin and I am a colleague and friend of John Marony. We are currently researching and writing about the use of adobe ceb in a hot and humid climate. I'm interested in your experience living in a hot and humid climate in adobe and what the diurnal variation was for that climate. We're those walls 24 inches to 48 inches? It's my opinion that adobe is a magic material because of it's phase change and thermal mass properties. However, if you understand the science of adobe, you also understand that a small single wall adobe simply can't work in a hot and humid climate with a small diurnal variation. The thermal creep during the hot summer months will simply overwhelm the system and it acts like an oven.
John and I are testing out a double wall and roof with ventilation chambers as the solution for using adobe in a hot and humid climate. A couple notes on your design. Most of the heat in our climate comes through the roof so that is much more important than the walls. Metal is a good choice but go with white metal as the reflectivity is very powerful. However, once you go to the trouble of framing and building a metal roof, you might as well stick frame and build metal walls as well. I feel you either go all metal, or all adobe. It's inefficient to mix the materials.
Post a Comment